Before I went to the Carneddau I made a few mods to my Duomid:
1) New dyneema cord. I completely re-guyed the Duomid using 3mm dyneema for the ground level pegging points and 2mm for the mid panel pull-outs, all colour co-ordinating in a rather nice yellow.
2) Two new ground level pegging points on the rear panel. In my experience, the rear panel benefits from two extra pegging points. I’ve been using a couple of tarp clips. However, I decided to make the pegging points more permanent.
I used the same technique as I used on the F10 Nitro. I glued a reinforcing patch on to the cuben at the hem with silnet. Then I secured a linelok with a short piece of grosgrain, using strong nylon thread. As with the Nitro, I’ve used a length of dyneema together with a loop of shock-cord. This means that there’s not too much strain on the pegging point, while still controlling and dampening the movement of the panel.
3) Extra door pegging point. The duomid door has a linelok pegging point on the left hand door panel but not on the right. If the wind comes from the right hand side, it’s a bit of a problem. The answer is to sew a linelok on the right hand door panel.
Sewing the grosgrain onto the zip fabric is quite tough. In fact so tough, that I broke a needle. That partly explains the slightly messy stitching in the picture below. The other explanation is that I’m not very good at sewing. The grosgrain can’t be sewn on the hem because there is a snap fastener, so I’ve sewn it a little way up. Despite the messy appearance, the sewing is very secure because it pulls directly onto the zip fabric.
The mods were hardly given a severe test on my Carneddau trip, but I’m very pleased with them. If you can use a needle and thread, they’re not difficult to do, just use a strong needle on the door pegging point.