Duomid mods

Before I went to the Carneddau I made a few mods to my Duomid:

1) New dyneema cord. I completely re-guyed the Duomid using 3mm dyneema for the ground level pegging points and 2mm for the mid panel pull-outs, all colour co-ordinating in a rather nice yellow.

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2) Two new ground level pegging points on the rear panel. In my experience, the rear panel benefits from two extra pegging points. I’ve been using a couple of tarp clips. However, I decided to make the pegging points more permanent.

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I used the same technique as I used on the F10 Nitro. I glued a reinforcing patch on to the cuben at the hem with silnet. Then I secured a linelok with a short piece of grosgrain, using strong nylon thread. As with the Nitro, I’ve used a length of dyneema together with a loop of shock-cord. This means that there’s not too much strain on the pegging point, while still controlling and dampening the movement of the panel.

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3) Extra door pegging point. The duomid door has a linelok pegging point on the left hand door panel but not on the right. If the wind comes from the right hand side, it’s a bit of a problem. The answer is to sew a linelok on the right hand door panel.

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Sewing the grosgrain onto the zip fabric is quite tough. In fact so tough, that I broke a needle. That partly explains the slightly messy stitching in the picture below. The other explanation is that I’m not very good at sewing. The grosgrain can’t be sewn on the hem because there is a snap fastener, so I’ve sewn it a little way up. Despite the messy appearance, the sewing is very secure because it pulls directly onto the zip fabric.

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The mods were hardly given a severe test on my Carneddau trip, but I’m very pleased with them. If you can use a needle and thread, they’re not difficult to do, just use a strong needle on the door pegging point.

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11 thoughts on “Duomid mods”

  1. Very good mods Robin!
    Did the one on the front door myself already. Same on my SMD Oasis. Will do the extra guy lines as well.
    Replacing the guy lines gave a less positive result. Tend to slip when wet so I’m using the MLD lines again.

    Thanks for posting.
    Willem

  2. Just got a Duomid courtesy of Dawn (Dawns Pages blog). So i will be looking at all your mods to date when i get back from Torridon. What did you find wrong with the original guys that you had the need to change them and where did you get the line locks from?

    1. The original MLD guys are fine. They are a bit chunky for the panel pullouts if you want to make them adjustable with lineloks. I saw some rather attractive coordinating dyneema cord in 2mm and 3mm, so I thought “why not?”. 2mm doesn’t work well in the ground level lineloks as it can slip when wet. Extrem textil is a good source of bits and pieces (not cheap though).

    1. Ron supplies c.3mm cord because it doesn’t slip. The extrem stuff is slightly thicker and definitely won’t slip. I used 2mm on my Scarp and had a problem with slippage when wet.

      I’ve found knots can be a bit sticky, so I’m staying with lineloks.

  3. Hi Robin, this is my first post on your site so forgive me if you’ve been over this before but I currently use a tarp (DD 3mx3m) for my wild-camping needs but was recently battered by wind and rain into admitting sometimes a tent is best. I’ve seen your reviews on the Duomid; the Tarp Tent Scarp 1; the Force Ten Nitro; and I’ve heard good things about the Minipeak II on backpackinglight and in Bushcraft UK.

    In your opinion, if you were to buy just one tent that offered value for money, a light weight and all round durability for wild camping in all terrains would you be able to choose between these?

      1. I read your review of the Scarp and was mightily impressed. Maybe it’s the one for me. I did like the Duomid and Minipeak II shape because of the height inside but the Scarp looks bombproof.

      2. If you want bombproof, look no further than the Scarp. Don’t forget to seal the seams though. The other shelter that is very strong is the MLD Trailstar.

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