Scarp mods part 3

This morning was a bit rainy, so I’ve abandoned the idea of pitching my Scarp in the back garden. It’s lucky I’ve got a big garage! Anyway, to continue the Scarp mods, I’ve added two threshold cords, some loops on the end guys, some seam-sealant across the tent floor to stop sleeping mats from slipping and tried a new tent groundsheet protector.

1) Groundsheet protector. I know this is not strictly necessary but, for me there are two considerations. Firstly, I like to have a porch groundsheet as it extends the usable are of the tent. Secondly, after reading some stuff on silnylon, I’m slightly concerned that it has a low hydrostatic head. A groundsheet protector should get round this issue as well as keeping the underside of the tent clean. I bought an Akto footprint from team io, as the Akto is similar in dimensions. While not perfect, it’s good enough. One porch is covered, the other is bare, which is what I wanted. It weighs 144g and cost £35. If I decide I don’t want the porch covered I can use the Tyvek footprint that I bought with the Scarp, which weighs 111g. Another option is to use a polycro sheet that I have.

team io Akto footprint


2) Threshold cords. I adapted the one that I made for the Laser Comp. Like the Comp, a taut pitch will probably put some stress on the clip that secures the bottom seam of the door. The Akto has an adjustable threshold cord to avoid undue stress. I’m not sure why other tents don’t have the same. Anyway, it’s easy to do. One end is attached to one of the end struts, the other to the loop of material that has the eyelet for the main arch pole. For extra security, the cord can be passed round the end of the pole where it protrudes through the eyelet. Adjustment is via a linelok.

Door threshold cord


3) End guy loops. I though these would make pegging the end guys neater.

End guy loops


4) Anti-slip strips. Silnylon is quite slippery. Having read about some problems that other backpackers have had when sleeping on a slope, I though that a good solution would be to paint three strips of seam sealant across the floor. Silnet sealant is quite grippy, so it should prevent a sleeping mat from sliding during the night.

Anti-slip strips


The one remaining task is to sort out some sensible pockets. The ones provided are far too small to be of use. If anyone else has some mods, let me know. I’m hoping that we might get some dry weather soon so I can pitch the Scarp in the back garden but the lawn is waterlogged.


16 thoughts on “Scarp mods part 3”

  1. I doubt ground water should challenge the bathtub floor hydrostatic head. Wind driven rain could. Then at worst you will get a bit of misting on the inside flysheet.

    1. There was an article suggesting that the pressure from a knee or an elbow could compromise a silnylon groundsheet..

  2. I have not used my Scarp much but looking back but it has been fine on nights with heavy rain and camping on wet ground. You could have done a thin coating on the whole floor with say 4:1 diluted Mcnet to stop slipping and give a bit of peace of mind if you are concerned of damp penetrating.

  3. I made a silnylon footprint for the Phreeranger but use it as a groundsheet if I’m only using the Phreeranger fly. I haven’t had any wet come through yet, even kneeling on it when clipping it into place it seems ok. Once you’re sitting on your sleeping mat the problem if it even exists would be significantly reduced.

    Good idea putting a few lines of sealant on the floor as gripstrips (speaking from bitter experience)

  4. Depending on what mat you sleep on you already have a groundsheet protector – the mat! Simply slip it between the ground and the groundsheet and job done.

    1. My paranoia was heightened by some of the commentary I had read about silnylon as a groundsheet material and a bad experience early in my backpacking days with a less than waterproof groundsheet. I can’t put a NeoAir or an Exped Downmat underneath so I shall use the Akto footprint, although I might experiment with polycro.

  5. The problem with coating all of the floor is that it makes it difficult to clean as dirt clings to it.
    Because of that I now dot my floors rather than striping them. Less added weight and easier to sweep.

  6. Hi, great site!

    Just a comment re Silnet. Because it’s so expensive, I use ordinary silicon sealant from a DIY store, thinned 3 or 4 to 1 with white spirit. It’s then exactly the same stuff, and just as easy to use.

    The only downside is that it does take a bit of mixing, but I just put it in a jar and make like a cocktail waiter for a few minutes! You only want to do a little at a time anyway, because it’ll start to cure in the jar after 15 to 20 minutes.

    It saves a small fortune if you have much proofing/coating to do.

    1. I only used half a tube. It doesn’t seem worth mixing your own. Using a tube also makes it easy to apply.

  7. Yes it wasn’t meant as a comment on your use so much as a general tip. I agree that if you only need a little it’s probably not worth it, and the tube is handy to take with you for emergency repairs, but I needed loads! It’s just as easy to apply from a jar as from the tube, if you use a small brush.

    I do also have a (possibly unreasonable) dislike of companies selling us “specialist products” when I know they’re exactly the same as much cheaper alternatives for general use. Silnet and Nickwax Techwash are the two main examples I know about.

    1. What’s your ‘real world’ replacement for Nikwax Techwash? I agree with regard to seam sealant – B&Q stock any number of alternatives for 10% of the price and there are many other examples, but Techwash…? Don’t know a replacement for that (apart from Grangers which is just as expensive).

  8. I spent three nights in my Scarp without any strips!
    It was funny how slippy things were for all 5 minutes!
    It hacks me off that I’m paying a small fortune for kit that is basically unfinished!
    I don’t think it would be to difficult for the makers to both seal and stripe the floors of their products!
    Rant over!
    How well do those 3 strips hold your sleep mat?
    Have you put any strips on the mat itself?

    1. Some strips on the groundsheet work well. I’ve also put some on the underside of my sleeping mat. To be fair, silnylon is slippery, it’s just the way it is.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.