Sitting in an airport lounge is pretty dull. Especially compared to being out in the hills. However, it gives a little time for reflection.

Despite the indifferent weather I really enjoyed my trip to the Lakes. I think I was quite lucky not to have any significant rain while I was walking and the temperatures were mild.

The cloud formations were worth seeing on Thursday. I had a brilliant wild camp, despite the slugs. Friday’s walk was different to my plan but was a lovely autumnal stroll.

I enjoyed not pushing myself, as well. Perhaps sometimes I forget that I backpack primarily for enjoyment. Sure there is a feeling of achievement at times, but that’s not the main motivation.

There is something magical and mystical about the Lake District that I’ve not found elsewhere. Sure Scotland and Snowdonia are grander, but the Lakes has the magic.

I think it’s something to do with the contrast of lush green valleys and wild fells. There is also an amazing variety in the character of the fells. Lastly, there’s the light. I don’t know why but it’s different to other fells and mountains.

Fond memories of a great time sustain me at times like this.

Friday 30^th and Saturday 31^st October

I got up at around six to answer a call of nature and decided it was a bit late for a lie in. Although it was mild, it still quite windy and the tops towards the end of Grisedale were under cloud. However, towards the east it was a bit clearer.

Morning looking towards Nethermost Pike

My original route was to go over Angletarn Pikes and down to Haweswater. My ankle didn’t feel too bad but it was quite sore if I rotated it. I decided that I would walk to just beyond Beckstones where I would make a decision in the light of my ankle and the weather conditions.

I had a leisurely breakfast and did a bit of exploration. I was packed by around 9.30. I shortened the back length of my pack, making the hip belt ride slightly higher, making it more comfortable as my hip was slightly bruised from the day before.

“My woods”

Just as I was leaving, I spotted two groups of school children wandering disconsolately down the path to Patterdale. I took one last look around what had turned out to be an excellent, secluded and sheltered pitch. I’m always a bit concerned camping near fields and this was nicely hidden away.

I soon caught up with and overtook the school kids, one of whom had a white bin liner dangling from his pack. None of them looked very happy. I wondered whether they had camped at Grisedale Tarn and suffered a windy and sleepless night.

At Grassthwaite Howe Kennels the path descended a steep grassy slope. I took care to mind my step, using my trekking poles to ensure I didn’t turn my ankle again. Along the way I passed numerous other walkers out for the day and one particularly boisterous Cocker Spaniel.

As I wandered down Grisedale, I was struck by the golden browns of the leaves on the trees. It wouldn’t be long before those trees were bare, so I savoured the sights.

Autumn trees by Grisedale Beck

After a few hundred yards on the tarmac road to Patterdale, I spotted a footpath sign to the right. A quick check of the map showed that this was a potential shortcut to the Patterdale Hotel. After short climb I was rewarded with some lovely views of Ullswater. I think Ullswater is the loveliest of all the lakes in Lakeland. It has an air of mystery as it is impossible to see end to end, bending around Place Fell. It also has variety with one end in the mountains, the other in meadows.

Ullswater

Just before the Patterdale Hotel, I took a wrong turn and had to retrace my steps a few hundred metres. As I passed the hotel, there were pleasant smells of food, but it was far too early for lunch. I crossed the Goldrill Bridge and took the footpath on the eastern side of Patterdale southward.

This is a lovely footpath that I used last year. It passes thorough woods and pasture, with constantly changing views. Looking across to the western side of the valley, clouds were beginning to kiss the tops. The wind seemed to be getting stronger. It felt as though the weather was changing with the sun becoming hazier and clouds gathering to the south. Just before Beckstones, I encountered a horse on the path sheltering behind the wall. I stroked its nose and carried on.

Path near Crookabeck

I reached the junction of the path just beyond Beckstones, where the left hand fork doubled back leading up to Boredale Hause and Angletarn Pikes. A decision could no longer be deferred. Although my ankle was OK, I was concerned that a strenuous trek over the tops in high winds might be too much. I also ruled out the option of camping at Hayeswater as I didn’t fancy camping in high winds in an exposed site. If I had the Scarp 1, I might have been more tempted, but the thought of a disturbed night’s sleep was not appealing. So I decided to return to Sykeside.

Looking up Deepdale towards Fairfield

I had lunch a few hundred metres further on, below Lingy Crag with its attractive waterfall. Not so attractive was the oik who, as I was approaching, nonchalantly threw a banana skin into the bracken. I guess I should have said something. Fortunately he wandered off before I sat down.

It was a nice spot for lunch but the wind made it quite chilly so I didn’t hang around too long. After a few photos, it was back on with the pack. The clouds were darkening to the south as I walked towards Hartsop. I toyed with the idea of carrying on to Dovedale for a wild camp.

Waterfalls below Lingy Crag

After Hartsop, I crossed the road and followed the path along side Brothers Water back to the camp site. In the open field, I could feel that the wind was now quite strong. I sorted out my gear, leaving some of the stuff I didn’t need and put the rest in the tent. After a restorative cup of tea, I had a quick snooze.

Brothers Water

By about four o’clock, the sky started to look threatening, so abandoned the idea of a wild camp and headed to the shower block for a hot shower. As I returned it started to spot with rain. About half an hour later it absolutely heaved down.

I felt I had made the right decision to stay put. I “cooked” an evening meal of Real Turmat beef and potato casserole. This reminded me of how superior Real Turmat food is compared with Mountain House. From now on, it’s going to be Real Turmat all the time!

Mid-evening, the weather started to get seriously bad with the wind whistling through the guy lines of the tent and very heavy rain. I enjoyed listening to the weather thrashing the tent, luxuriating in the knowledge that the Marmot Thor could survive anything short of a nuclear war. My original plan was to go home on the Sunday but the weather and my ankle made me feel that it would probably be better to return on Saturday.

The rain finally gave up lashing the tent by early morning, which was a relief as I had visions of the camp site flooding! About an hour after first light I got up. On the way back from the shower block I had a conversation with the camp warden. He said the weather forecast was “horrendous”, which confirmed that it would be a good idea to return home that day. He added that it had been exceptionally wet this year. They had been unable to use half the site and that it had rained every day in August.

After a quick snack and cup of tea for breakfast, I packed the contents of the tent. It started spitting with rain as I put the stuff in the car. Carefully, I took down the tent avoiding getting too much mud on it. On the way out I took one last picture, looking back at Dovedale. One of these days I really will camp there!

One last look back towards Dovedale

I love the drive along Ullswater, so I decided to go north rather than south. Heading towards the northern end, the clouds started to disperse and the sun broke through. I wondered whether I had been too hasty in deciding to go home. However, the weather was filthy as I went over Shap Fell. I stopped at Tebay Motorway services for a well deserved cooked breakfast.

The weather was pretty miserable most of the way until Manchester, which made me feel a bit better about leaving a day earlier than I had originally intended. So that’s the backpacking over for this year. I’m hatching some plans for some longer walks in the Lakes next year, possibly involving a trip on a steamer on Ullswater.

More pictures

Wednesday 28^th and Thursday 29^th October

The drive north took about six hours and as I neared the Lakes, the weather began to deteriorate. There was mist and light rain as I went over Kirkstone Pass. It was obvious from the roads and the streams that there had been a reasonable amount of rain. However, as I neared Brothers Water Inn the rain died down to a light drizzle.

I called in at the camp site shop to pay my fees. I was concerned that the camp site might be full as it was half term, but there was hardly anyone there. I had decided to use Sykeside campsite as a base, giving me the option of returning to my base camp tent (my Marmot Thor aka “The Fortress”) if the weather got too bad. It also meant that I had a safe place to leave the car. You can pay a fee just to park the car if you wish, but I like having the fall-back option, which, as it turned out, was a good idea.

Sykeside camp site looking towards High Hartsop Dodd

I put the tent up and then had to decide whether to go to Dovedale to wild camp or stay put at the camp site. As the weather was a bit iffy and I fancied having a shower, I decided to stay put. Dinner was a Mountain House Sweet and Sour Chicken, which was not bad. After a nice hot shower, it started to rain as I got back to the tent.

It rained intermittently through the evening and early part of the night, so I felt I had made the right decision in staying at the camp site. I certainly enjoyed my reacquaintance with the Exped Downmat and had a good night’s sleep. However, any thoughts of a lie-in were scotched by a loud conversation by a couple of blokes in a tent about twenty yards away. The joys of camp site life!

The morning, looking towards Hart Crag and Dove Crag before it clouded over

The sky was reasonably clear when I made my way to the shower block, raising my hopes for the prospects for the day. After my usual breakfast of a muesli bar and fig rolls, I packed the rucksack. I had brought both my old Aether 60 and Mariposa. I decided that I would use the Aether and everything went in easily with room to spare. I ditched a few surplus items as it seemed very mild. My hand-held scales suggested that my sack weighed 12.75kg without water, but including fuel and food for three days, hardly ultralight but not too bad.

I left Sykeside at about nine o’clock and decided that it looked more interesting to climb High Hartsop Dodd rather than go up Caiston Beck. By this time the tops were under hill fog and Dove Crag and Hart Crag were obscured.

From High Hartsop Dodd looking towards Brothers Water

The climb was steep but easy. I took it slowly to avoid early burn out. I was sheltered from the wind so it made the climb a bit sweaty. As I was in no hurry, I took a number of photos. The walk along the ridge to Little Hart Crag was pleasant and not too squelchy underfoot. The views across to Dovedale were attractive and it was interesting to pick out part of the route that I had used last November. It looked a good deal steeper than I remembered.

I passed a flat shelf, which would make a good high level pitch, although there is no accessible water nearby. I made a short detour to the top of Little Hart Crag, where the wind started to make its presence felt. On the short descent from the rocky outcrop I was feeling hungry so I stopped for some elevenses, sheltering behind the base of the crag.

High Hartsopp Dodd ridge looking towards Dovedale

Rather than a snack, I had wholemeal pita bread and Jarlsberg cheese sandwich to fortify me for the walk along the ridge as I guessed it would be quite exposed and it could be some time before lunch proper. As the wind had strengthened and I was about to move into the mist, I decided to experiment with my Quickfire Jacket over my Vasco Jacket. The climb up to Dove Crag was quite steep. I met two walkers coming in the opposite direction with their black Labrador. On the ridge I was into the mist, but route finding was easy as there is a drystone wall to follow. I was starting to hit the traffic now as I encountered a number of other walkers. I regularly encountered some strange patches of regurgitated red berries. I guess they were probably rowan berries probably eaten by sheep.

The wall leading to Dove Crag

The walking was a bit boring in the mist, but as I approached Fairfield, there was one of those magical moments when the mist clears to reveal a panorama of the fells. The clouds appeared to boiling around the hills but the tops were now clear. I took some photos of the unusual cloud formations. There were quite a few walkers on the top of Fairfield.

Clouds looking west from Fairfield

The strong wind made it feel quite cold so I decided to postpone a proper lunch until I was out of the wind. Rather than go down Deepdale Hause to Grisedale as I did the previous year, I decided to descend via Grisedale Hause. This is a slightly easier route down as it is not quite as steep or as long, although the path is quite badly eroded. Half way down I took out my trekking poles to steady myself.

Grisedale Hause and Grisedale Tarn

As I reached the tarn, it started to spot slightly with rain, making me decide to go on a bit further before eating. I passed several other people who looked like they were intending to set up camp at the tarn. After about half an hour I stopped to have some food, sitting on a large boulder.

Everything was going so well. However, I was looking up at the scenery when I stumbled and turned my ankle rather badly. I really should have been using my trekking poles on the stony path down, but foolishly I had stowed them. Although my ankle was sore, I could still walk reasonably freely, but I took extra care on the path down.

Middle Grisedale, I camped in the woods on the left

I started to look for a pitch, contouring just below the path, but there was nothing obvious and the wind was quite strong. My eyes turned to the woods on the northern side of Grisedale where the path flattens. The closer I got, the more promising it looked. I spotted a gate through the enclosing wall. Leaving my pack nearby, I had a good scout round the woods.

Down by the river, there were some good flat grassy pitches between some oak trees. However, it was a bit exposed to the wind and I was concerned that it was a bit too obvious. A bit further back from the river and near the wall, it was more sheltered and discrete. I decided to pitch there, between some widely spaced pines.

The western end of the woods

There wasn’t much deadfall, so I didn’t feel there was much danger of a branch falling on me. I removed a few twigs and cones and pitched the Comp. After a wash, I had dinner. The Mountain House Pasta Bolognese tasted better than a Waitrose lasagna that I had earlier in the week, although it didn’t have as much pasta as you might expect.

Disaster struck when I spilt a cup of tea over the porch groundsheet and over one sock. After mopping up, I made another cup of tea. Instead of taking my sock off, I put my fibre pile bivi boots on and within half an hour my sock was dry. These are real luxury and I love them!

My pitch amongst the pines

As I was relaxing, I discovered that I was being invaded by slugs. I must have picked off and ejected at least a dozen over the next hour or so. One even made it to the roof on the inside of the inner tent. Yuck. In the end I closed the inner tent door to guard against further intrusion.

The wind seemed to be getting stronger and it was roaring through the tree tops. Fortunately I was far enough inside the wood that the wind was quite diffuse as it reached the tent. Now and again there were a few spots of rain. I couldn’t get a mobile signal, so I had no idea what the weather would be the next day.

I woke a few times in the night and evicted a few more slugs. While my ankle was sore, it didn’t feel too seriously damaged. In the time that I was awake I began to think about the options for the next day.

More pictures

I took some new things with me to the Lakes and I thought I’d give you a short post on them.

Trek wholefood bars. I had the peanut & oat and the cocoa brownie bars. I thought they were rather good, being a a kind of cross between a fruit bar and an oat bar. They are quite filling and additive free. They are very solid as well, so they resist a bit of rough treatment in your pack. They seem to be widely available through Holland & Barratt and Sainsbury’s. Worth a try.

Velbon V-pod tripod. The V-pod is brilliant. At just 275g, it’s great for a solo walker. Self portraits become simple. It’s remarkably stable. The only drawback is that it is so light that it can topple over in windy conditions. A great find. Thank you Hendrik for alerting me to this.

Integral Designs shortie gaiter. I wore these all the time I was walking and they kept the grunge from making my trousers dirty. They were never sweaty and seem remarkably robust for such a lightweight bit of gear.  Mine are green, not the yellow featured on their website. Again, recommended if you want a pair of short gaiters.

Alpkit Candy Cane tent pegs. I used these for the Fortress. Apart from looking rather good, they performed well and seem pretty robust. They are not light enough for a solo tent at 15g per peg, but good replacements the some of the sub-standard pegs you often get with tents.

Thank you for the kind words about my photos. I love looking at trip photos, both mine and others. They are a constant reminder of the wonderful world we live in and the privilege of being able to roam around in comparative freedom.

I should be able to post the trip diary next weekend. I’ve also got some notes on gear.

Picture of Sykeside before I left on Saturday.

I’ve uploaded my photos from my Lakes trip to Picasa. I’m afraid the weather wasn’t particularly good for photos. You’ll have to wait a bit longer for my diary.

 Grisedale Tarn

One of the pleasures of backpacking is the little things that work well. For some reason these give a disproportionate amount of pleasure. Things that worked well this trip:

Bivi boots: these were not strictly necessary as the weather was very mild with a low of 12c. However, they are a bit of luxury in the tent. Mine are Needle Sports own fibre pile bivi boots. They may not be as warm or light as down but they have one big advantage: damp is not a problem. On Thursday night I spilt some tea on one of my socks (doh!). No problem, I put the bivi boots on, my feet were warm and within half an hour the sock was dry. At 160g, they are nice and light and are water resistant enough for short excursions outside the tent.

Lakeland Soup ‘n’ Sauce bags: these are really tough self seal bags and ideal as rubbish bags. I’m always concerned that normal plastic bags might burst, but there’s no chance with these.

MYOG camera case: I’m really proud of this one. It works perfectly. It’s easy to access the camera and there’s no fear of the camera getting damaged by a knock or getting wet. A stroke of genius.

Clip lock boxes: I know this is a bit controversial and some think it’s a bit over the top, but I like to keep my food in a plastic clip lock box. It just means that everything (apart from the freeze dry meals) is in one place and can’t get damaged etc. I use a second small one for little electronic bit and pieces as well.

Primus windshield: whoever thought of this is a genius. What can you say about it? It’s simple and it works. No wonder they sold out.

Outdoors Grub pouch cosy and plastic spoon: again, so simple but effective. It keeps your food warm until it’s hydrated and ready to eat. The spoon is the best I’ve used as well. The handle is the right length and the bowl is larger than other spoons I’ve used. Highly recommended.

Cup cosy and lid: the cosy may not be the neatest, but it keeps my tea warm until I’m ready to drink it. It also makes the cup fit perfectly inside my Snow Peak Solo cook set. For a lid I use a plastic top from a fruit salad container, which is slightly oversized. It keeps the drink hot and cost nothing (apart from the fruit salad, obviously!).

Some of my cooking bits and pieces

Back home now and feel quite disorientated! You’ll get some notes tomorrow but full trip report may take longer as I have a business trip this week. Sorry to hear PW & P had to give up their epic but the weather really has been bad up here according to the warden of Sykeside. So it seems I was actually quite lucky. Don’t worry about my ankle BTW. It’s happened before and it’s not serious, just a little tender.

Cooked breakfast at Tebay. The only motorway service station worth stopping at. Thick mist and rain over Shap Fells. Contrast to the sunshine at northern end of Ullswater.

Heavy rain overnight. Up at 6.45. Low hill fog, no rain but breezy. Looks very grey. Going to pack and go home. Enjoyed being warm and dry while the weather gave the tent a good thrashing last night. Had a quick chat to the warden before leaving. Weather forecast “horrendous”. Felt better about leaving!

This morning: