I’ve uploaded the photos of my TGO Challenge to my Picasa page. Click here to view. Warning: there are 664, so using the slide show feature will take about half an hour! I’ve not put captions on them. You should be able to work out where they are if you follow my trip posts and maps. Hope you enjoy them.
Out of idle interest, I’ve put my Challenge on a spreadsheet to analyse distance each day, ascent and average speed. The first surprising thing is that I actually only spent an average of five and a half hours each day actually walking. This is an approximation as I didn’t religiously time how long I was taking for lunch and breaks, but I did note when I started and finished a day. If you add in somewhere between an hour and and hour and half for lunch and breaks, my average day was between six and a half and seven hours. Four days were basically half days (days, 7, 9, 11 and 14). The longest day was day 8, which was eight hours walking and nine and a half from start to finish.
My average daily distance was 19.5km and ascent of 499m. Even on a relatively low level route with only one Munro, my total ascent was nearly 7,000m. My total distance was 273.1km. It would be interesting to know what the average distance is for all Challengers.
Average speed for the whole trip was 3.6kph with a high of 4.7kph on days 7 & 13 and a low of 2.8 on day 2. Day 2 included the very slow first section of Loch Monar, while days 7 & 13 were on tracks and roads.
What this analysis suggests to me is that my route was actually quite unambitious, even though it was very enjoyable. Much of the walking was on tracks and paths, rather than over rough ground. On any future Challenges, I think I would plan a more ambitious route with some slightly longer days.
Having said that, I would be careful in taking to account the terrain. It is sensible to factor in quite slow speeds on rough ground (2kph), while on tracks and roads, faster progress can be factored in (4kph). In future route planning I will split any day’s walk into three categories: rough (2kph), path (3kph) and track (4kph). This should make planning times more accurate.
Although at times I felt tired, at no time did I feel fatigued. Perhaps by accident, no day was too long or over-ambitious. Also, I had a good mix of days in terms of length with some flexibility. The ability to have a late start or early finish occasionally helped to make the walk more enjoyable and appreciate the landscape more.
Weather was also a factor. The only adverse weather was on the first three days and on days 8 and 9. Clearly, wind and rain slows you down and saps your energy. While there is a limit to how much flexibility can be built into a schedule, some flexibility helps. There are times when you really don’t want to have to rush through the landscape just to keep on schedule, but to linger and savour it.
This is summary page for my TGO Challenge trip diary, to make it easier to navigate through the whole trip. Click on the link for the appropriate post.
- The prologue (getting there)
- Day 1 Strathcarron to Loch Monar
- Day 2 Loch Monar to Allt Uchd Rodha
- Day 3 Allt Uchd Rodha to Cannich
- Day 4 Cannich to Drumnadrochit
- Day 5 Drumnadrochit to Glen Mazeran
- Day 6 Glen Mazeran to Allt an Tudair
- Day 7 Allt an Tudair to Coylumbridge
- Day 8 Coylumbridge to Faindouran Lodge
- Day 9 Faindouran Lodge to Loch Builg
- Day 10 Loch Builg to Ballater
- Day 11 Ballater to Glen Tanar
- Day 12 Glen Tanar to Tarfside
- Day 13 Tarfside to North Water Bridge
- Day 14 North Water Bridge to St Cyrus
- Initial reflections
- The statistics
- Complete set of photos
North Water Bridge to St Cyrus
Thursday 22nd May
Start 8:00, finish 11:00,12.7km
The last day. How would I feel at the finish? After breakfast and packing, I had a quick chat to Ian Cotterill and then I left the camp site by a “secret” back entrance. The first obstacle was to negotiate crossing the ferocious A 90 without getting run over. In the event, it was easy as there was an immediate gap in the traffic.
I was quickly on to a minor road. I overtook one Challenger. Next I met Kate Kowalska and I decided to be sociable. I slowed down a bit and we walked together to St Cyrus. One of the joys of the Challenge had been to walk with a random selection of people from all walks of life. I couldn’t have picked a better companion for the last few miles. Thanks, Kate.
The walk to St Cyrus is not very exciting, taking minor roads through agricultural land, but chatting with Kate made the miles go quickly. Just after the railway viaduct we were passed by Mick Hopkins, who looked like a man on a mission.
We bimbled along happily past fields of rape seed and barley. As we approached St Cyrus, the weather looked threatening so we put on our waterproofs. We turned into St Cyrus and quickly located the cafe and bus stop.
All that remained was to find the cliff path and get on to the beach. Fortunately the rain held off and we were able to take the obligatory end of Challenge photos. That was it. The end. The Challenge had been a major focus in my life over the past few months and getting to the end had been the focus of the past two weeks. Suddenly, I’d done it. There was no leaping up and down, just a few smiles.
I experienced a mixture of a feeling of achievement and relief. Even for someone who is a relatively experienced backpacker, I still felt a sense of pride in having achieved my objective. I also had a feeling of relief. The disappointment of having to retire from the Challenge in 2012 had been expunged. All that was left was to get back to the cafe for a celebratory tea and cake, then get the bus to Montrose to sign out at Challenge Control.
Tarfside to North Water Bridge
Wednesday 21st May
Start 8:45, finish 3:30 26.0km
Despite my best intentions, I didn’t get away until 8:45. By that time, a good number of Challengers had already left Tarfside, many to The Retreat for breakfast. I decided to take the road for a while rather than cross the river, partly to find out where The Retreat was, for future reference.
I was feeling fit and walking fast. I soon passed The Retreat and started reeling in Challengers who had started ahead of me. I must emphasise this was not deliberate, just a function of the way I was walking.
Although road walking is often dull, the scenery to Mudloch Cott was attractive enough to distract me. I stopped briefly to talk to Lindy Griffiths. I caught up with another gaggle of Challengers (including Ant and Sean) at the bridge taking me to the southern side of the River North Esk. I seemed to be flying along.
It was all very pleasant until I reached a part of the track that was being used to clear logs which had been cut down as part of a forestry clearance. I would have taken a track closer to the river, but there was a large herd of cows blocking the path. For about half a mile I was hopping about between muddy ruts. Eventually I made it through. Looking back, on the fence, there was a notice that said the track was for “authorised persons only”. Whoops!
By now I was getting close to the new bridge that Alan Sloman had told me about. I encountered another herd of cows on the track with young calves. I was careful to go round them and not get between mothers and calves
At the appointed grid reference, I found the bridge, although it was quite well hidden from the track. On the other side, foolishly, rather than follow the track to the road, I followed a track parallel to the river. This led nowhere and I had to cut up to the road, climbing a rickety barbed wire fence in the process.
A little way along the road, I found the signpost to The Rocks of Solitude path. The path descended back down to the river and followed a delightful ravine with some rapids. It was the highlight of the day. Part way along I met Rob Harvey. We had a quick chat, then I moved on. Not long after, he caught me up and overtook me as I took several photos along the way.
Soon the walk was over. I didn’t realise that there was a footpath that followed the river into Edzell, so I took the main road. At least there was a pavement most of the way. I reached Edzell at about one o’clock and made my way to the Tuck Inn for lunch.
Lynsey Pooler was there with her two children. There were a couple of other Challengers but it looked as though I had made it ahead of the crowds. A few minutes later, Rob Harvey came in and joined me at my table. I pigged out on scampi and chips followed by a chocolate nut sundae. Rob left as I had a postprandial cup of tea.
Just after two o’clock, I thought I’d better make a move. I located the bridge (turn off by the Post Office), and followed a footpath before reaching a series of minor roads. I passed Rob having a sit down and a drink.
This was a really dull section, leading to a long stretch of road past the old aerodrome. At Northgate I turned left on to another minor road, past a sawmill (horrible smell) and then onto a track. The track led past a couple of fine looking houses and then to the road that led to the North Water Bridge camp site.
There weren’t many tents when I arrived, so I selected a relatively secluded pitch at the end of the site. It was a pleasant sunny afternoon. I had a shower and chatted to Mike Knipe, Peter Dixon, Lee Taylor, Matt Holland and Ali Whitaker. As the camp site filled, I was glad I had chosen to camp at the far end as it got a bit crowded.
After a while I went back to my tent to have something to eat. I didn’t socialise after. I wanted to write up some notes and have some time to think. Today was the last real day of walking on the Challenge. Tomorrow was only a short walk to St Cyrus and the finish. Tomorrow it would all be over. Part of me wanted to get to the end, but part of me didn’t want to finish the walk.
Glen Tanar to Tarfside
Tuesday 20th May
Start 8:30, finish1:30,16.4km
When I got up at 6:30am, it looked like it was going to be a fine day. Although there was some hill fog, the sky was mainly clear. As I was eating breakfast, Andy Gerrard swung by. He was making an early start and heading for Tarfside. My start was rather more leisurely.
I was packed by around 8:15, by which time Ant and Sean could be seen climbing up the path to Mount Keen having camped a bit further down the glen. I stopped for a chat with Rob, who explained a bit more about his Challenge.
It was warm enough to wear just a base layer and fleece, without a windproof. The path up from Glen Tanar is well graded, so I made good progress. The views behind were glorious, so I took a number of photos. Near the end of the first section of the climb, I caught Ant and Sean.
I was feeling good, so I surged ahead. After a flat section, I stormed up the steeper rocky section to the top. Not far from the top, the views disappeared as I climbed into the cloud. By this time I had put on my windproof top as it had become windy and somewhat chilly.
It took me an hour and ten minutes to reach the summit from Glen Tanar, which I thought was a good effort with a full pack. Unfortunately, there were no views, so I had a quick bite to eat, sheltered by a rock outcrop and started my descent.
The path down was excellent, although I was walking into the full force of the wind. Part way down, I phoned Challenge Control to let them know that all was well. I emerged below the cloud where the path meets the LRT that goes down to Glen Mark. The rougher LRT made for slower going. I winced as I thought of Rob Leech coming down here with his 34kg pack.
The descent into Glen Mark was lovely, especially in the lower reaches. By the time I made the building, the sun was shining. I diverted to look at the Queen’s Well, where the water was covered in weed.
A little further on, I met a farmer releasing his sheep onto the hillside. We had a chat for about ten minutes, then I was on my way again.
The lower part of Glen Mark is less interesting, although still pleasant. The track made for good progress. At the junction with the road, I bumped into Norman Reeves (or Stormin’ Norman as he is known). He was suffering a bit, so after a quick chat, I stepped on the accelerator and pushed on ahead.
The distinctive monument on the Hill of Rowen, suggested that I didn’t have far to go. I overtook some other Challengers and soon I was in Tarfside. I decided to pitch my tent before visiting St Drostan’s.
I was surprised how few tents were on the field, but it was quite early. I pitched my tent down near the river, as I though it was bit more secluded and I was less likely to be disturbed any any snoring.
After pitching, I spotted Andy Walker. So much for Alan and team not visiting Trafside this year! I went to the hostel and pigged on two bacon buns, cake and tea. I chatted to several other Challengers including David and Margaret Brocklehurst. The Tarfside team did us proud. Outside, I had a chat to Vicky and Toby Grace who I “knew” through Twitter.
Back at the camp site, I saw David Hale and Ray Disson. I caught up with their news. By now the field was filling with tents and I was glad that I had chosen a more secluded spot. Back at my tent, Peter Dixon and Lee Taylor wandered over to introduce themselves. They too were people I had been in contact with through Twitter.
At around six o’clock, a car pulled up and someone from The Retreat arrived to take food orders for delivery to the camp site. This was an opportunity not to be missed! I ordered a burger (!) and chips. About half an hour later it arrived and I sat down with Dave and Ray on the grassy bank next to Dave’s tent for a scoff.
After a brief respite, it was on to the Mason’s for a drink with Ray, Vicky & Toby, Dave and John & Sue Tattersall. Then Alan Sloman walked in with some half baked excuse about hurting his knee and having to change his route. After a while, Ray and I left the hardened drinkers to it and retired to our respective tents.
I really enjoyed Mount Keen. It was a shame there were no views at the very the top. I wasn’t sure what to expect at Tarfside. I’m not one for crowds. However, I enjoyed the atmosphere and the camaraderie. St. Drostan’s and the Mason’s were good fun. As with all the Challenge, everyone I met was very friendly. It was a really good day, perhaps tinged with a little sadness as the end was drawing near.